There were hardship and heroics when April brought the 13th Ironwill Team Challenge back to it’s spiritual home in the mountains of Chimanimani.  Raising money for charity, 54 participants underwent a gruelling mix of orienteering, mountain biking and abseiling over four days covering a spectacular  path chosen by our local mountain guru Doug van de Ruit.

Stormy climb awaits

Up the gorge from Tessas’ Pool, north of Peza, through the Wind Tunnels onwards and upwards taking in the Bundi Valley, Paradise Pools, Aerodrome and finally down Baileys’ Folly.  An  unforgettably beautiful route – and then the cycle ride over Greenmount, Charter, the Goat Track – an unforgiving, near tortuous test of  spirit as bikes and bodies took a beating in their quest to reach the finishing line. Only heroics by the Africats (ex-Peterhouse girls) allowed their win – buckled wheels… no problem, they strapped the crippled bikes together and ran with them… for ten kilometres!

The 2012 Ironwill Ecochallenge will be remembered for more than that incredible route  – it will be remembered for the  vibrant energy and competitive spirit brought by the youngsters from Peterhouse and Falcoln College Quest programme. It will be remembered for the way in which competitors helped one another regardless of delay and for the comraderie at Outward Bound at the end of each exhausting, exhilarating day. And though the race goes to Nyanga in 2013 I quote Graham van de Ruit: “Many will be looking forward to returning to Chimanimani. Doug van de Ruit’s spectacular routes made sure that even those familiar with the area ventured into new territory and with the sheer excitement and variety of challenges and the team dynamics this made it a special, truly memorable event.”

Energy and youth!

Orchids on Mountain Acacia

Living in Chimanimani is just the thing for a walkaholic. Our dogs gather outside the kitchen at 3.30pm and by 3.50pm Holly and Rocky plop their paws up on the stable door, peering at me. This is clearly a reminder, an insistent little “Come on, it’s time to go already.” Soon four dogs and one black cat bound through the bush with an energy I can only envy these days. I am a sight. You have to have the right kit for this walk and it is not stylish kit. It is a practical defensive uniform. Against ants. Yes, ants. I think they are an alien species because they were not here in the 1990’s when I walked my dogs and cats over the same trail. Whatever their origin they are here to stay.  They sting or bite (it feels like a sting) and try to kill every crawling thing that stumbles their way. So I wear two pairs of socks, one long, one short. The long ones are pulled over the top of my jeans and I walk fast. The dogs have learned to stay off the path and Benji the cat moves using a series of dashes and leaps  and then swerves and collapses panting, onto a shady rock or tree and waits for me to catch up.

Benji loves his walk

Dogs are not allowed into the National Park so we walk a lovely trail parallel to the Eland Sanctuary, either down to the Golf Course to visit the horses or directly west on a quiet path through the bush. The Golf Course walk is only for those days when I feel particularly strong.  It is a continual steep climb coming home and the ants pity nobody. I call them “my training ants”. They simply will not allow you to slow down, no matter what you heart rate is. They sting you into action. Dare you  pause momentarily to flick one off your foot they swarm up you legs, so you do not stop. You learn to admire the view on the move.

My favourite walk takes us to Old Goat Rock. I named this boulder after arriving there one day hoping for a sit down and it was already taken. A  large, pure white billy was fast asleep. Holly, my border collie spotted the intruder first, she bristled and gave him the eye. He lifted his eyelid at her and returned the look for a moment before resting his head again. I let him be. He was there first after all. I called all the dogs and quietly left.

Old Goat Rock

Though I have since visited the rock many times, the old goat has never been back. A few coarse hairs he left on the rock were washed away by the rains. I still remember his golden eye and his strong odour and I suppose he ended up in a cooking pot somewhere down in Ngangu.

From this rock you look over a quiet valley towards Greenmount. On your right the sun sinks behind Sklyine Junction and to your left the mountains shimmer with golden light. Birds fly above you and the dogs pant and sniff the air. You know how lucky you are to sit here and to be a part of it. Benji takes a drink from the cap of my water bottle and once his big thirst is quenched we set off for home.

The rains have been welcomed by us all – the more so because of water problems in the village and fires having swept once and twice over every piece of ground engulfing the Eland Sanctuary and surrounding forest. The country has had a heat wave and it feels so good to be in the cool mountains of Chimanimani.

Dee managed a trip to Gona re Zhou in September when temperatures in the Low Veld were still bearable. Camping on the banks of the Lundi  she has captured some lovely images. These Wild Dogs lying in the river bed below the Chilojo Cliffs were sold at the Wingate Art Exhibition last month.

Next winter she will be back in Gona Re Zhou – until the heat subsides she will paint Chimanimani. How lucky we are to live in Zimbabwe…..

Music and Mountains in the sun

The Chimanimani Arts Festival is a free event which lifts the hearts of our local population and provides a feast of live, varied and talented musicians for the lucky few overseas guests who have braved the politics of our nation.  All day and all night vibrant music, drumming and singing flood the village green and is carried up the police camp ridge into Frog & Fern. At 3.00am an old toppie like me is lying in bed under a snug duvet with all toes tapping and asking for the hundredth time Ï wonder who that is now? Such rhythm…”  

Here at Frog & Fern our newly finished camping facility was much complimented and I have to say that sitting around the boma camp enjoying morning tea and delicious homemade rusks courtesy of our  friendly “happy campers” was an unanticipated pleasure. Thanks ladies.  

My four  bay horses spent the sunset hour stood in their paddock munching their kikuyu hay  facing north east, all ears pricked right at the village green 2km away. They seemed to love it as much as everybody else! I could swear they did.  Jade in particular could not be distracted. Must be her African bush pony heritage coming to the fore.  

Thanks to everybody who stayed at Frog & Fern for letting us enjoy the festival instead of working hard… I hope you all book us again next year!

Frog & Fern camp site is already fully booked. If you arive in Chimanimani without having already secured accommodation it is worth phoning us to see if there have been any last minute cancellations for the cottages. 0775 920440. The road to us is bad so rather than drive up and be disappointed – phone from the filling station in the village. If we are full I will try to advise where you might still find a spot.

If you do stop in at the filling station in the village you should ask the National Parks Office attendant for a copy of the Information Leaflet from the Chimanimani Tourist Association. This Info. leaflet contains phone numbers, a map of the village, places to stay and will help you get your bearings.

Spotted Eagle Owls

After several months back home in Chimanimani Dee has finally managed to get back to work in her studio attic. Having commissions with deadlines has helped! But also the cottages are now reasonably improved so her plumbing, electrical and general handyman skills can rest up for a month or two.

These owls were ringed on the abseiling ledge at Marula Environmental Education Centre in Tala Private Game Reserve in 2007. Whilst we worked at Tala in Kwazulu Natal Dee was lucky enough to work alongside  emminent Ornithologist Dr. Barry Taylor for four years. During this time she was able to fully indulge her love of birds, handling, ringing, phographing and  painting them. This painting of baby owls was entered in the inaugral BBC World Wildlife Artist of the Year Competition and took her all the way through to the last three in the category “Visions of Nature”

Entabeni Lion

Dee works in watercolour as well as Conte, painting wildlife as well as flora and landscapes. Whilst we were at Horizon Horseback Safaris in Limpopo she sold much of her work to Riders from all over the world. She has a Leopard in Zurich, Wild Dogs in the New Forest, several Lions in Paris, Eagle Owls in New York, another leopard in Australia and the list goes on. Happily she has also recently sold some Egrets to discerning art lovers in Harare…

Weeping Boer Bean

Thanks for the enthusiastic response to this Page.  Dee is still busy painting so  O.K then, as requested – here  are some more.

*  F&F – Means the painting is still unsold and hanging at Frog & Fern.

Baby White Rhino *F&F

Cape Eagle Owl *F&F

Bateleur *F&F

Eagle Owl

Pygmy Geese *F&F

Winterbush Waterburg *F&F

Literate Meerkat

Serval for Valerie

Leopard for Dave

Hyaena

Reed Cormorant * F&F

Entabeni *F&F

Cape Vulture *F&F

It is still very cool at night – pack warm gear for evenings.

Presently diesel and petrol are available at the filling station in the village. The filling station is the only place that regularly has some change. You will save yourself alot of time by bringing small denomination US$ to shop in the market or pay Parks fees etc.

You cannot buy ice, wine or spirits in Chimanimani without a major run around. If you are camping or self catering – bring all your favourite foods. Only tomatoes, onions and rape are plentiful in the market. The numerous grocery stores all sell the same things – mainly baked beans, cooking oil and white bread.

The golf course is looking fab! Bring your clubs or just have a stroll there.  You may see some bay horses running about on the fairways – please feel free to shoo them off the greens – otherwise they are part of the mowing team. 

If you find yourself in Chimanimani in need of information or help – store these two numbers in your phone:

Jane 0915 920440 or Tempe: 0912 101283

Safe travels and we look forward to seeing you in Chimanimani.

Hiking in Chimanimani

The Chimanimani Tourist Association (CTA) was re-launched on May 5th 2010. A record number of people attended that opening meeting representing residents, stake holders, Chimanimani Rural Council, Zimbabwe Republic Police, Chimanimani Arts Festival (CAFT) as well as National Parks and Wildlife.

Until the CTA has it’s own, Frog & Fern Cottages web-site will host this page of general information. It will be continually up-dated so if you are looking for information on Chimanimani please visit this page regularly.

Things to do in Chimanimani:

Hiking

Chimanimani is a hiking destination of great natural beauty. It is really all about walking – walking for the serious hiker or for those who just want to stroll for a couple of hours every day. Birders and golfers who have a penchant for walking will find Chimanimani particularly enjoyable. The walks, log fires, the friendly people and generally clear winter skies also make Chimanimani a great place for a retreat anytime from June through to November. If you are not a serious hiker you can stay right in the village and still enjoy a number of very scenic walks to Bridal Veil Falls, Greenmount, Pork Pie Summit and even around the Golf Course at the Chimanimani Club. Self Catering accommodation in perfect locations as well as catered accommodation at the Hotel, camping at either the Hotel, Frog & Fern or Bridal Veil Falls – you can leave your vehicle at any of these places and walk up to spectacular view points without having to step foot in the Chimanimani Mountains proper. Your party can also opt to let the serious hikers tackle the Mountain whilst the rest of you relax at your accommodation, braai or go birding at Bridal Veil Falls and the Arboretum or even get out the clubs and play a round of golf.

Mountain Biking

With many dirt tracks, little traffic and magnificent views Chimanimani is, without doubt the best venue in Zimbabwe for the serious mountain biker. Friendly locals will happily point you in the right direction even when you choose to go right off the beaten track.

Chimanimani terrain will test and reward the fittest of you!

Places to Stay:

Chimanimani Arms       Hotel                           US$60pp B&B   +263 26 2850 / 0773 220163

Frog&Fern Cottages   Self Cater+B&B       US$40+$50pp   Camping $15pp  – 0775 920440

Greenmount Lodge       Camping & Rooms      US$20pp         +263 26 2769 / 0776 005159

Kweza Cottage               Self Catering Lodge    US$30pp SC    +263 26 3030 / 0772 101283

Lowe’s Guest House      Guest House                US$20pp          +263 26 2270 /0773 439774

Heaven Lodge       Backpackers/Camping         US$ 10pp         +263 26 2701/071 792355

Golf:

Contact Shane Kidd or Doug van de Ruit for information on the golf course:

Telephone: +263 26 2900 / 3351

Sebastian who does the electrics, lights, sound – anything that needs wires really… well he books our cottages annually and it is the one time of the year when we have campers on the lawn in front of the cottages. Everybody is together, one crowd, one party. Nobody is looking for peace and quiet – our usual qualities of privacy, unobtrusive service and comfort.  These things are not in demand during Festival time. We may be 1.5km from the Village green where all the performance take place but you can still hear the gorgeous sounds whilst you braai under  Msasa Trees at the Frog & Fern.

The Chimanimani Arts Festival is unique in that it invites local artists both famous and as yet unknown onto an open air stage with a natural backdrop of great splendour. As you watch the musicians perform your eyes are continually drawn beyond them to the great Chimanimani Mountain Range and the glitterering quartzite slopes which divide Mozambique and Zimbabwe. Under these great mountains the pounding drums  and the feverish dancing evoke the very heart beat of Africa.  They stood over this chosen amphitheatre  well before the first skin was stretched across a piece of wood and pounded with human hands. This year the festival is expanding and side shows will run in the Chimanimani Hotel (documentaries and movies filmed in Zimbabwe) as well as open microfone sessions in the Blue Moon for anybody who feels like stepping up and performing live. The best newcomer will get to perform on the main stage.  A variety of acts ranging from acrobats to singers will be on that stage over the three days. A childrens’ workshop is happening already and an outreach programme continues.  On the village green surrounding the main stage there will be stalls for local people to sell their wares as well as educational projects on display from  Population Services and HIV Awareness NGO’s.  Accommodation is in short supply and at this late stage it is wise to bring a tent. Camping is available at both Heaven Lodge and the Chimanimani Hotel.

In the meantime an autumn chill has set in, clear blue skies and a bite in the air. Still the kikuyu is green and lush and the horses munch happily on the golf course. We continue to find novel ways of managing without regular water, electricity, connectivity, roads. Things are interesting, very interesting. I have just read Rian Malan “My Traitor’s Heart” – fascinating and honest book, try to read if you can. Has he written one since that? 

Till next month…

We had our Chimanimani Tourist Association  re-opening meeting this week and it was the biggest turn out I have seen in all the years since we started in 1995. It is amazing how a bit of hardship can pull people together.

As for Frog & Fern we now have our third cottage ready and have named it Mzanje in honour of the trees which surround it. Locally known as the Mahobohobo it produces a delicious fruit, much sought after by baboons as well as people. A good brew is made of it and I think we may have to perform a traditional blessing ceremony using a little of this beverage. The tree is heavily patronised by bird parties because of the myriad of insects which accumulate on the fluffy underside of the leaves and on the fruit. It is not keen on frost so tends only to be found on higher slopes. Ground feeding birds such as the thrushes love foraging around under the Mzange because the fallen leaves, being large, offer tempting hideouts for bugs. All in all it’s a great tree to have and I think the new cottage is somehow blessed to nestle among them.

Being May already we are all looking forward to the Chimanimani Arts Festival which takes place May 21st – 23rd. 

A general tip for anybody visiting Chimanimani is to bring a rugged vehicle, you can really get around without stressing if you have high clearance – not necessarily 4×4 but your trip to Bridal Veil falls or even Base camp will be a breeze instead of a challenge not to wreck your vehicle. Oh and if you like golf, bring your clubs and enjoy a round – give Shane Kidd or Doug van de Ruit a ring for details on caddies and fees.  Tel: 026 2900

Jane.  5th May 2010